Handlooms

My briefing for points of discussion on the HANDLOOM sector

WEAVERS'/ARTISANS COMMUNITIES:

For many in this community, the use of their weaving skills are the sole or main source of income.

At present, as far as the next generation or emerging trends go, those who have an option would prefer to look for more lucrative livelihoods. HOWEVER, for many who remain 'uneducated' and illiterate but skilled, especially women, this is still the main source of livelihood.

If the government's policies are appropriately aligned, the already-existing skills of these communities could create a number of jobs and employment in the sector.

Many in this community are able to remain self-employed, or form collectives. This, with the emerging use of technology for e-commerce and so on, could mean that there is tremendous potential for these communities to not only remain self-employed, but to also create employment.

Thus, encouraging the skills of the handloom sector would amount to building on already-existing capital. This is what needs to be done, with a slew of well thought-out economic measures and policy moves, rather than extinguishing this already-existing skill-sector.

If handloom-weaving were to be a remunerative activity, many from outside the weavers' communities would even opt to learn the skill.

THE PRODUCTS:

Handloom products, traditionally, have been made using naturally-grown materials such as cotton and silk, often coloured with vegetable dyes. (Please note, there is an argument here, about the use of land for growing cotton versus using it for growing food, plus the debate against Genetically Modified Organisms -GMOs- in connection with Bt Cotton). Thus, there are land and farmers' issues involved. It is therefore necessary to be conscious of this larger context, while seeking to arrive at solutions for all sections of society.

Synthetic yarns and mixtures are already being used in the handloom sector.

Imported silk from China, for example, is also being used in the handloom sector in India, to weave traditional Banarasi silk sarees and so on.

Apart from the material/yarn used, the hand-loom weaves, patterns, designs, types and styles are as diverse as the varied and complex cultural histories of our lands.

The synthesis of this infinite variety has been one that continuously evolves with time, sometimes at an accelerated pace, and occasionally, with macro-shifts (Such as over the past few years, where it has been seen that typical elements of sarees from one part of the sub-continent have been integrated with those from other far-flung parts of the country).

The local skills are often associated with a number of local, especially geographical factors (Such as in the case of the Kalamkari work of Andhra Pradesh).

Organically grown cotton is a luxury product, as is Ahimsa silk (made of silk that does not practically boil silk-worms to extract silk).

At present, hand-loom products range from high-end luxury and designer products requiring high maintenance, to the most economical form of clothing made possible by the government through it's Rural Development Ministry's Khadi Gramodyog, to cite one example.

"Hand-loom" does not refer to only one kind of spinning wheel or charkha. There is a diversity of methods and traditional looms in this sector.

Much has been done in and for the handloom sector in India over the years, bringing the products to the global centre-stage, as well as in the field of highlighting the works of master crafts-persons. The opportunities and need to make appropriate policy moves at this juncture of India's and the world' history needs to be recognized and tapped into, in order to benefit the weavers, the consumers, as well as for the cause of promoting cultural heritage,

THE CONSUMERS:

The consumers of handlooms range from the most privileged of national and international consumers, to the poor.

The poor, however, are sometimes pushed to opt for synthetic garments which come with health and environmental hazards, especially given the working conditions of the labour sector. Cotton garments have to be available, and within the reach of the masses at all times.

While cotton garments might be mill-made, and these should be made even more accessible to all, it is important to keep our cultural heritage of the weaves within the reach of the masses, especially keeping in mind inter-generational equity.

Creative solutions abound, for how to make sure that this happens, instead of making uninformed and arbitrarily arrived-at changes to the law on Handlooms.
V. Shruti Devi, 24th April.